WORK MODULE 4: COSMETICS FORMULATION

This work module, in total coherence with the skills of the CÏSCO (ColloïdeS Catalyse Oxydation) team at the University of Lille and CERTECH, mainly includes four activities, some upstream and intended to rationalize and understand the mechanisms involved, others downstream with the objective of mastering the design of new cosmetic formulation systems based on the new biosourced cargoes developed as part of the Cosmétinnov project. The tasks envisaged are:

1) Encapsulation and release of model molecules -Rationalization of structural effects

The objective here is to master encapsulation protocols and release mechanisms based on a series of model molecules in order to identify key structural parameters and rationalize.

2) Encapsulation of molecules of interest The aim here is to transpose the understanding of the phenomena acquired in activity 1 to various molecules of interest in cosmetics.

3) New formulation systems integrating biosourced cargos and encapsulated active ingredients Different formulation principles (aqueous, oily, biphasic) will be developed for potential applications.

4) Behaviour of new formulation systems by topical applications The best candidate systems developed in activity 3 will be studied in detail, particularly in application conditions, with both a physico-chemical and an application approach including a
sensory analysis.

The CÏSCO team of the UCCS Laboratory of the University of Lille has all the necessary skills in physicochemistry, formulation and oxidation to perform these different tasks. It has a formulation platform equipped with more than twenty specific devices (tensiometers, DLS/SLS spectrometer, Turbiscan, NanoZS, rheometer, polarization optical microscope, electron microscope, IRTF-ATR, emulsification reactor by catastrophic and transitional phase inversions with conductivity monitoring, RapidOxy for measuring oxidability, etc.) enabling it to understand all the aspects mentioned technically. His knowledge and approaches, essentially based on a physico-chemical understanding of the phenomena observed in complex systems, should be an asset for the development of original, economically viable biosourced formulations with the green cargo ships developed as part of the project.